Monday, July 6, 2009

Clarification on team's schedule

Hi All,

Often the reports we get from a given team are second hand. This has been the case with the June 28th team for the past several days. Second hand reports work great, especially when a team is doing well and there is nothing out of the ordinary to report. One pitfall of the second hand report is that it can lead to assumptions being made about what a team has done on a given day.

Jacob called in last night ans I learned that, due to the fact that they had quite light and reasonable loads, they did not make a carry up and around Windy Corner a few days back. Instead, they took a rest day at Camp 2, and then packed up camp and moved up to Camp 3 in a single push.

After their move to Camp 3 on Saturday, they took a full rest day at Camp 3 yesterday. Today they are going to carry some gear and supplies up the fixed lines. They don't actually have much to carry up to the ridge above the fixed lines, but it is important to get experience going up, and more importantly, going down the lines, in case the weather is marginal on the descent.

The slope that the fixed lines ascend is the steepest and most technical part of the route. The climbers clip into a line with a mechanical ascender and climb up in roped reams. Should one climber slip, the others are all clipped into the line, and can "arrest" any possible fall. It is a tricky section that is psychologically taxing as well, especially on the descent.

Sorry for the mix-up on the team's actual schedule, but some assumptions were made during the course of relaying information back to me, based on a typical schedule. The good thing is that the team is doing well enough to have cut a day from the typical schedule by single carrying to camp 3. They are going to slow down a bit to gain some additional acclimatization, and will probably take an second rest/acclimatization day at Camp 3 after making a carry up the fixed lines today.

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